Nireika is in the middle of nowhere. I mean it. Helicopters won't even fly there to get your body. Logan and I walked for three days to get to base camp and then waited for three more for the others to arrive. Mainly, Curt and Rob and then the other cool ER people that they brought with them. Po, CS, Mike and Mark and Christine, I think. Cool people from an Idaho hospital.
Logan had been feeling ill. I have video to prove it. So we were tent bound at 17,500 ft. for the hole time except one attempt at Kangchung which lasted till logan lost his cookies, or whatever he ate behind a rock and we went down to eat more. Kangchung look horrible anyway. It was a huge pile of loose rock that may have been good 5 years ago when snow was holding those peices in place.
Curt arrived with the crew and Logan decended to recover. I waited another day for Curt to recover from his hike and then we packed and got ready for the climb.
We left bc at around 4 and headed up the steep scree slope toward the Cho La Col. I was feeling strong and lead up the hill while Curt panted behind. We arrived at the gear stash that I put up there three day before when logan and I went to Kangchung. I decided then that I would climb Nirieka so I decieded to lock my fait by leaving the gear there.
Our toes and hands where cold but they warmed when we started up the glacier. Two hours later we found ourselves on the route. I was in the lead and the snow and Ice began to steepen as the ridge went toward the summit. Curt was not feeling well but I kept optimism in my mouth and we kept climbing. I took the extra rope and what ever I could to lighten Curts bag.
I lead some of the most exposed and steep snow and ice that I've been on to get us to our high point, shie of the summit. We made a wise decision to come down when we did. Curt was out of energy and I could do no more to overcome. We decended to the slope with V-threads and then rock horns and then down lead the snow slopes to the col and our on to the glacier.
I felt good about the climb. I wanted the summit, like always but it was to much on this day.
That night I slept and ate with dreams of home knowing that tomorrow I would be finally decending. In the morning I started to walk and didn't stop until 6pm. 20+ miles I walked to Namche. Normally a three day walk. I wanted out.
Logan and I are waiting for the porters to catch us and then we will go and wait for a flight to kathmandu. Then I will go to the airline and beg for an early flight home.
James
Sunday, November 4, 2007
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